How to Plan a Half Lap of Australia Road Trip Itinerary

Planning a half lap of Australia? It’s undoubtedly one of the most epic road trips in the country. Here’s our experience!

Doing the famous “Lap of Australia” is a bucket list item. This iconic road trip traverses the entire loop of Australia, stopping in every state and territory along the way.

But what if you don’t have the time to do the full lap to drive around Australia? Well, plan a half lap of Australia itinerary instead!

We spent 3.5 months on the road looping our way from Melbourne up to Darwin and then around the entire Western Australia coast. We just didn’t have the time to do the full lap – especially as we had to leave our precious pup at home and didn’t want to be away from him for too long.

We plan to do the other half in the near future, so eventually we will have done the entire loop, just over a couple of different trips.

So, if a half lap of Oz is on your own bucket list, here’s my experience, including tips on what to pack, where to stop and how many days to spend in each location.

I don’t normally write these diary-style articles for this travel website, but it was fun to reminisce about our trip – and hopefully this Australia travel guide will be helpful if you’re planning your own half lap of Australia!

Overview of our half lap of Australia

• Time: 3.5 months
• Distance: 12,000+ kilometres (7,500 miles)
• States visited: 4 (Victoria, South Australia, Northern Territory and WA)
• Number of caravan parks: 28
• Number of free camps: 5
• Number of national park campgrounds: 5
• Number of motel nights: 1
• Number of flat tyres: 0 (yay!)
• Number of windscreens broken: 1 (booo!)

Quick FAQs about planning a half lap of Oz

How did we choose our route?

We live in Melbourne and we wanted to escape winter! So, we chose to head north where we’d have the maximum time with warmer weather. We went across from Victoria to South Australia, up the Stuart Highway to Darwin and then around the WA coast.

I spent a lot of time researching the route and had planned our national parks and towns we wanted to visit (as well as towns we needed to visit to stock up on food, water and fuel), as well as key rest stops so we weren’t driving for too long each day.

How long do you need for a half lap of Australia?

Technically, you could drive this lap in about six days without stopping. But that’s crazy.

For a half lap of Australia, you need at least 8 weeks – but more time is always going to be better. This half lap is more than 12,000 kilometres.

We didn’t want to be packing up and down every night, so we decided 3.5 months was about the right amount of time for us to see what we wanted to see without feeling too rushed. It’s also a trip that’s been on our Australia bucket list for ages, and we wanted to do it right.

What’s the best time of year?

It depends on your route. If you’re doing the northern route like we did, then April to September (winter/the dry season) are the best months. This avoids the heat and rain of the summer months. 

If you’re doing the eastern route through, March to May and September to November are ideal. You’ll avoid the heat of summer in NSW and Queensland as well as the rainy season in the Northern Territory. 

How much did it cost?

How long is a piece of string? A half lap of Oz can be done cheap-ish or you can spend as much money as you like.

Your biggest cost is going to be fuel – we spent more than $6,000 on diesel for 3.5 months. Our next biggest cost was accommodation ($4,000) which could easily be cut down by staying in free camps. We spent most of our nights in caravan parks. When we do the eastern lap of Australia, I will plan more nights in free camps to save money.

Our other costs were groceries ($2,000), eating out ($3,000), sightseeing/tourist activities ($1,200) and laundry ($115). I won’t tell you how much we spent on alcohol!!

We could have easily cut down our costs, but we also didn’t want to skimp on anything. 

Can you do a half lap with kids?

Absolutely! We met so many families on the road, and the kids were having the best time. One of the families we saw while in a mine in Coober Pedy were treating the excursion as a home school opportunity, while other families were taking advantage of being outdoors and were hiking, fishing and biking as much as possible.

Do you need a 4WD for a half lap of Australia?

You don’t need a 4WD, but is it going to make your trip better? Possibly. You can easily do this trip solely on bitumen roads. But if you want to experience some of Australia’s incredible sights (like Purnululu National Park and parts of Kakadu National Park) then a 4WD will make that possible. 

Do you need a caravan?

Up to you! We had a camper trailer which suited us (although we were always jealous of everyone whose caravans were easily accessible at rest stops!).

You can take your own caravan, rent a campervan, camp on the roof of your car or camp on the ground. It’s all up to what you prefer and what your budget is.

Where did we stay on your half lap?

With our camper trailer, we stayed in caravan parks mostly, as well as a few free camps and roadhouses. Caravan parks gave us access to power (not always necessary) as well as bathroom facilities as our camper trailer obviously didn’t have a waste water system.

Of course, you can also stay in cabins at caravan parks or hotels/motels along the way – although this will be more expensive. 

What did we pack?

I’m writing a guide to everything you need to travel in the Outback which will be helpful for anyone tackling a half lap or the big lap, but in the meantime, here are a few must-pack items:

• Spare tyre/s and repair kit
• Tyre pressure kit
• Extra fuel and water containers – you’ll need a jerry can to avoid paying some ridiculous fuel prices in remote areas!
• All the usual camping gear
• Food and cooking supplies
• First aid kit
• Sun protection (hats, sunscreen, sunglasses)

What apps did you use?

The two apps we used on a daily basis were Petrol Spy and WikiCamps.

Petrol Spy helped us plan the cheapest places to fuel up along the way, especially in the more remote areas of the country.

WikiCamps is an excellent resource for free and paid camping spots along the way. Many travellers leave reviews so you can figure out which site is best for you. It’s a small cost to purchase.

Half lap of Australia – Our Northern/Western route

Here’s our entire route – with tips on where we liked and where we’d skip.

Echuca – 2 nights

While we live in Melbourne, we actually started our road trip in Echuca because this is where we left our beautiful French Bulldog, Diego, with my husband’s parents. Saying goodbye to him was incredibly hard – but we knew he’d be well looked after and loved.

Barossa Valley – 3 nights

We knew we were heading into the Outback and some pretty remote areas, so we thought why not start our trip in style with a visit to the Barossa Valley wine region?

It was a long, 8-hour drive to get here from Echuca. We spent a few days in the lush, green countryside, enjoying lunch at Maggie Beer’s The Farm restaurant and wine tasting at a couple of different wineries.

Our last night included a super windy storm where we quickly learned how to tie down our awning in the middle of the night!

Where to stay: Barossa Tourist Park

Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park – 4 nights

The stunning Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park was our home for several nights.

Hiking was the big drawcard here, and we loved the Arkaroo Rock, Wangara Lookout and St Mary Peak trails. Read more about the best things to do in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, which includes itinerary ideas for 2, 3 and 5 days.

Another can’t-miss trip is to the township of Blinman and lunch at the Prairie Hotel. The Prairie Hotel is famous for its “feral feast” – a mixed grill of charred roo fillet, camel sausage, emu rissole and goat tomahawk – but we chose a fish dish instead because it was a lot of food!

Where to stay: Wilpena Pound Resort

Pimba – 1 night

It’s a long drive to Coober Pedy so we broke up the trip with a night at Spuds Roadhouse in Pimba.

It’s $5 a night (per vehicle) to stay in the gravel car park. It’s a pretty spacious area but try to get there by about 3pm or 4pm to guarantee a spot. It’s right on the highway and there’s a train line on the other side, so it can be a bit noisy through the night!

The pub meals inside the roadhouse are decent.

Where to stay: Spuds Roadhouse

Coober Pedy – 2 nights

Deep in the heart of the South Australian Outback, Coober Pedy is one of Australia’s quirkiest and most intriguing towns. From talking to other travellers, I found that you either love it or hate it. I’m the former. Either way, there are plenty of things to do in Coober Pedy.

The first thing we did as we drove into town was snap a pic in front of the Welcome to Coober Pedy sign.

Over the next few days, we then visited the Old Timers Mine to learn more about the town’s opal mining history. I also really enjoyed the tour of Faye’s Underground Home. Faye Nayler was the first woman to own and operate a mine in Coober Pedy, and she built this home with her fortunes. It took her eight years to dig out the home with picks and shovels and there are some surprises inside!

I also highly recommend taking a peek inside the underground churches. The Serbian Orthodox Church is the most elaborate, but the St Peter & Paul Church right in town is also worth a look.

Where to stay: Big4 Stuart Range Outback Resort – or take a break from camping and book a room at an underground hotel like the Desert Cave Hotel!

Erldunda Roadhouse – 1 night

It was another big day of driving after Coober Pedy, so we spent the night at the Erldunda Roadhouse. We’ve stayed here a couple of times now on different trips and it’s got a great little tavern (although it’s often busy as the motel rooms are rented out to construction workers).

There are a couple of emus and a camel on site which are entertaining!

Where to stay: Erldunda Roadhouse

Uluru – 3 nights

We didn’t visit Uluru on this trip as we’d already done an Alice Springs to Uluru road trip a few years previously. But on a half lap of Australia it absolutely can’t be missed.

Uluru is one of Australia’s most iconic sights, and I’d recommend veering off the Stuart Highway at Erldunda Roadhouse to spend a few nights here.

Uluru is remarkable, towering 348 metres above the Earth’s surface. What’s fascinating is that there’s more than 2.5 kilometres of Uluru actually beneath the surface! There are so many things to do in Uluru for a few days, from cycling or walking around the base of Uluru to seeing the Field of Light to splurging on a special dinner under the stars.

A lot of people forget about nearby Kata Tjuta (formerly The Olgas). This is a stunning area, so plan a day here to take some of the hikes through the domes that push their way through the earth. There are two fantastic hikes here: the Valley of the Winds and the Walpa Gorge walk. Kata Tjuta is a place of great significance to the Anangu, so make sure you stick to the trails and follow any guidance.

You’ll need to buy a park pass to visit Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park – you can do this at the gate, but if you’re travelling during peak seasons, I recommend buying it online in advance.

Where to stay: Camp at Ayers Rock Campground or check out my full guide to Uluru accommodation

Watarrka National Park/Kings Canyon – 2 nights

Watarrka National Park – specifically Kings Canyon – is one of my favourite places in all of Australia. Two nights is the minimum amount of time you should plan to stay here on your half lap of Australia. 

The 6.4km Kings Canyon Rim Walk has magnificent views across the canyon rim. It passes orange sandstone domes, through the lush Garden of Eden, into a shady pool surrounded by towering walls and around the weathered “Lost City” beehive domes.

If you want to see Kings Canyon from above, you can also book a 15-minute helicopter ride.

Where to stay: Kings Canyon Resort

Alice Springs – 3 nights

From Uluru to Alice Springs, you can drive back on the highway or, if you’ve got a 4WD, take the Mereenie Loop.

Alice Springs may not have the best reputation, but I think it’s worth a few days of your trip. The flurry of negative press that seems to appear whenever some politician has an agenda has done this town and its residents a disservice, so come see for yourself what makes Alice such a special place. It’s also a good place to stock up at the supermarket and enjoy a meal out.

This was our second time here, and we enjoyed the exhibits at the Alice Spring Desert Park, while the Araluen Cultural Precinct has a few different museums.

A must-do for your Alice Springs itinerary is a drive out of town to Tjorita/the West MacDonnell Ranges – the “West Macs” – to explore gorges and swimming holes.

And, unexpectedly, Alice Springs even has its own brewing company. Even the owners of the Alice Springs Brewing Co. say that Alice may not be the ideal place to brew beer, but they’ve created a great spot with beer, pizzas and a lush garden. My husband made sure we came here a few times!

Where to stay: Alice Springs Discovery Park or the Alice Springs Tourist Park

Karlu Karlu (Devil’s Marbles) – 1 night

After a few days in Alice Springs, we continued further north, of course making a stop at the Tropic of Capricorn marker, about 20 minutes away.

Our stop for the night was Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). These large boulders are scattered across a wide, shallow valley and have cultural significance to the traditional owners of the land, the Warumungu, Kaytetye, Alyawarra and Warlpiri people.

The best time to visit is at sunrise or sunset when the light reflects off the boulders, creating a stunning sight. A lot of people go at sunrise, but we liked sunset – it was quieter and we didn’t have to get up so early!

Where to stay: Try to book a campsite at the Devils Marbles Campground (booked through the NT Parks website), but you’ll need to book well in advance – we couldn’t get a site so we stayed at the free camp out the front of the Devils Marbles Hotel

Daly Waters Pub – 1 night 

A few hundred kilometres north of Karlu Karlu is Daly Waters, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it-town that’s famous for its pub.

It’s an iconic stop for most people travelling up the Stuart Highway. With cold beer, tasty pub meals, live music and a quirky owner, it was a fun stop for a night (or two if you need a break from driving). The walls of the pub are covered in travellers’ signatures, souvenirs and other interesting objects from across the years. 

This place is busy during the high travel season. I recommend arriving early or trying to book ahead to secure a spot in the grounds right next to the pub. This area has grass and some shade as well as better shower and toilet amenities. We arrived after 4pm and had to be put up in the dusty, gravelly camping area on the other side of the (dirt) road).

Where to stay: The Daly Waters Pub of course!

Katherine – 5 nights

Heading into Katherine – one of my favourite small towns in Australia – we went from the dry, dusty Outback to the start of the tropics and the Top End. We felt it immediately! The air here is thicker and the plant life changes.

I could happily spend weeks here – there are so many things to do in Katherine. Check out the hot springs in town or take a short drive over to Mataranka for a dip in Bitter Springs and Mataranka Springs, two of the best swimming spots in the Northern Territory. We went to both, as they’re quite different experiences.

The highlight of a trip to Katherine is nearby Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge). Here you can go hiking, take a scenic cruise or hire a canoe to explore the gorge system. You could even spend a few nights in town and then a couple of nights camping at the national park, to mix things up.

The swimming holes at Leliyn (Edith Falls) are incredible. If you’ve got more time (and energy), the longer Sweetwater Pool Walk leads to more amazing swimming spots, and they’re usually quieter.

Where to stay: Riverview Tourist Park

Litchfield National Park – 3 nights

Following one epic national park with another, Litchfield National Park is filled with swimming holes that are perfect for cooling down on a hot NT day.

We spent a few days hopping from swimming hole to waterfall to hike. The must-dos are Wangi Falls and Florence Falls, two incredible waterfalls with deliciously cool waters to swim in. These are some of the most popular waterfalls in Litchfield, however, so head to Upper Cascades and Tjaetaba Falls for some (relatively) quieter spots to wallow in.

Check out the “magnetic” termite mounds to see the impressive homes these busy little insects build for their queens.

If you’ve got a 4WD, check out the Lost City – which actually are reminiscent of ancient Mayan ruins – or Surprise Creek Falls.

Where to stay: Litchfield Tourist Park or book a campground in the national park

Darwin – 5 nights

After several weeks on the road, we made it all the way to the top of the Northern Territory – and one of Australia’s coolest capital cities, Darwin. After 3,000km through the Outback from Adelaide to Darwin, it was a surprise to be in a “big” city again!

We visited a handful of the markets in Darwin to try delicious food – Darwin’s proximity to Asia means a variety of cuisines can be found through the city. The Mindil Beach Markets are the most popular, but I prefer the Rapid Creek Markets for something a little quieter. The Parap Markets are also a must-visit for the dazzling variety of tropical fruits and foods, including the famous laksa dishes. 

One of my best friends lives in Darwin so it was great to catch up with her and experience local Darwin life. I loved the Deckchair Cinema, where we relaxed back in the comfy chairs to watch a flick outdoors, as geckos scrabbled across the screen and bats fly overhead.

I also enjoyed the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. It’s a great place to learn about Indigenous culture and art, as well as the history of Darwin – and it’s free!

Where to stay: Discovery Parks Darwin

Kakadu National Park – 4 nights

One of Australia’s most iconic national parks, Kakadu is incredible. As a World Heritage Site, Kakadu National Park is home to stunning natural landscapes, diverse wildlife and important cultural sites for the traditional owners of the land, the Bininj/Mungguy people.

One of the highlights is a visit to Ubirr, where you can see ancient rock art dating back thousands of years. The best time to visit is sunset for glowing views all the way across to Arnhem Land. Another must-see is Jim Jim Falls, one of the most photographed waterfalls in Australia – but you’ll need a 4WD to get here.

There are only a handful of swimming holes in Kakadu (don’t swim elsewhere – there are thousands of crocodiles here!), and if you’ve got a 4WD then head to Maguk, a beautiful swimming hole surrounded by towering cliffs.

We really enjoyed the guided boat tour with Yellow Water Cruises on the Yellow Water Billabong and the South Alligator River. We chose the sunset tour because the light is so lovely, but there are tour options throughout the day. During the tour, we saw hundreds of birds, buffalo and other wildlife – as well as more crocs than we could count.

Where to stay: During our time in Kakadu, we swapped campgrounds every couple of nights, and end up staying at Djarridjin, Mardukal and Maguk campgrounds

Lake Argyle – 2 nights

Time to cross the border into Western Australia. We actually spent another two nights in Katherine after Kakadu so we could stock up on food before the big drive to Lake Argyle. When crossing the border, you’ll have to surrender fruits, veggies and honey, so have a cook up before you cross!

Lake Argyle is an absolute gem tucked away in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia. It’s one of the largest man-made lakes in the Southern Hemisphere. Even though the lake is full of (freshwater) crocodiles, you can get out and kayak or paddleboard, or hop on a sunset cruise.

We hiked a few of the trails around Lake Argyle Resort, and then loved taking a dip in the infinity pool which overlooks the lake – this spot is stunning! (Although the pool water is FREEZING!)

Overall, though, we just loved chilling out here.

Where to stay: Lake Argyle Resort, home to the famous infinity pool overlooking the lake

Kununurra – 3 nights

Kununurra is the gateway to the Kimberley region, and we loved this little town.

Must-dos include a hike or two at Mirima National Park, which is right in town. It’s known as the mini-Bungle Bungles because its rock formations resemble the famous Purnululu National Park. You’ll need to buy a WA Parks Pass to access the park (we bought a 4-week pass to cover the rest of our trip).

We spent a few hours watching the cars crossing Ivanhoe Crossing, followed by a rum tasting at the Hoochery Distillery, the oldest legal still in Western Australia.

Kununurra is the perfect place to kick off a trip to discover the best things to do in the Kimberley.

Where to stay: Discovery Parks Kununurra, which is right on Lake Kununurra (we were lucky enough to snag a site right on the lakefront)

Purnululu National Park – 3 nights

If you’ve got a 4WD and a few days, I highly recommend a side trip into the jaw-dropping Purnululu National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to the iconic Bungle Bungle Range, with its striking beehive-shaped sandstone domes.

In my guide to visiting Purnululu National Park, I recommend spending a day in the southern section of the national park and another day in the northern part. The southern section is home to some great walks like the Domes Walk, Cathedral Gorge Walk and – for those who want something a little more challenging – Whip Snake Gorge.

In the northern section, time your visit to Echidna Chasm Walk for around 11am, when the sun hits the chasm walls and literally glows. We also really enjoyed the Mini Palms Walk, which leads into a palm-filled oasis.

Where to stay: Walardi Campground was our choice, but an alternative campsite is Kurrajong Campground

Mimbi Caves – 1 night

I booked a night at the Mimbi Caves Campground to break up our drive and so we had the chance to tour the Mimbi Caves. These caves are part of the 350 million-year-old Devonian Reef system and tours are led by a Gooniyandi guide who can share the history of the caves and their significance to the local First Nations peoples.

There are two tours each day; we opted for the morning one. You will need to book in advance.

Our guide Ronny was incredibly entertaining – he told us stories, sang songs and also was frank in his discussion of issues facing Indigenous people. The tour was a really interesting mix of cultural learning and nature, plus there was warm damper and hot drinks around the fire.

Where to stay: Mimbi Caves Campground

Broome’s Gateway – 1 night

Headed to the Dampier Peninsula, we tried to book a caravan park in Broome but everything was booked out. However, this campground on the outskirts of Broome was a great alternative – lots of space, large amenity blocks and peaceful.

We set up camp and then promptly headed out for a pub meal before heading straight to bed.

Where to stay: Broome’s Gateway

Dampier Peninsula – 5 nights

The next day we were up early to head up to the Dampier Peninsula. I’d heard so much about how beautiful this area is and it didn’t disappoint. Cape Leveque was a highlight, and we spent a day visiting a few of the different camping sites and swimming spots. Here, the red cliffs meet the turquoise ocean and it’s hard to drag your eyes away.

There are crocs around here, though, so swim carefully. I would only wallow about in the shallows and made my husband stand on a rock to look out for crocodiles!! We also spotted some dolphins cavorting in the water, which was special.

Beagle Bay is an interesting spot, famous for its shell-covered church – the walls and altar inside are covered with shells which is quite beautiful.

We also took a day trip over to the Ardyaloon Community. There’s a small fee to enter the community and it includes a guided tour of the hatchery, which was actually a fascinating stop to hear about the community’s reliance on the water.

There’s also Cygnet Bay, home to Australia’s oldest pearl farm. You can take a tour of the pearl farm and even taste pearl meat.

Where to stay: We spent two nights at Banana Well Getaway (warning: lots of mosquitoes in the evening but they didn’t bite much), two nights at Gambanan Wilderness Retreat and a night at Cygnet Bay Resort

Broome – 2 nights

Confession: we didn’t actually like Broome very much. It was incredibly busy and there wasn’t a whole lot to do. Sure, there’s Cable Beach for sunset (and of course, a sunset camel ride) – but we actually preferred driving onto the beach at Gantheaume Point to watch the sun go down.

Matso’s Brewery is a great spot with good food (and brews), and we were lucky enough to catch the Staircase to the Moon, a natural phenomenon where the full moon reflects off the mudflats at low tide, creating a staircase-like effect.

I’m willing to give Broome another go, though! I’d especially love to take a Broome whale-watching tour.

Where to stay: Book well in advance in Broome, as caravan parks book up. We stayed two nights at the Broome Vacation Village

Port Smith Lagoon and Caravan Park – 3 nights

The next stop on our half lap of Australia was completely unplanned – but turned out to be such a lovely spot! Lots of places were booked up along the coast, so my husband randomly found the Port Smith Lagoon and Caravan Park.

This caravan park has a load of regulars who come here every year. It’s super chilled and peaceful, with a resident wallaby who hops casually through the sites.

We spent a few days here meeting some really interesting people, reading a lot of books, hanging out by the lagoon and spotting whales off in the distance – but you can also fish or try out the caravan park’s 9-hole golf course.

Where to stay: Port Smith Lagoon and Caravan Park

Port Hedland – 1 night

Our trip then took us to Port Hedland – a stopover on the way to Karijini National Park – a town known for its massive iron ore industry. Driving in to town was incredible – after seeing two-lane highways we were now driving over multi-lane freeways that reminded us of our time living in Dallas, Texas.

Other than a stroll along the cliffs overlooking the beach, we didn’t do much here – it was just a place to sleep.

Where to stay: Port Hedland Caravan Park

Karijini National Park – 3 nights

It’s hard to say which was our favourite national park on this trip, but Karijini National Park is definitely in the top five.

The park is absolutely breathtaking – and full of adventure. With its rugged red gorges, crystal-clear waterways and lush surroundings, Karijini is a must-visit on a half lap of Australia.

Our favourite spots were Fern Pool, the Spa Pool at Hamersley Gorge and Kermit’s Pool.

At night, there’s a fantastic stargazing tour where you can look through powerful telescopes – we saw Saturn and it was so clear we could even see the rings around the planet! The remoteness of the park means minimal light pollution, offering an awe-inspiring display of the Milky Way.

Where to stay: There are a few campgrounds in Karijini, all with basic amenities; we stayed at Dales Campground

Nanutarra Roadhouse – 1 night

You’ll soon realise that the distances in WA are enormous, so a few nights at roadhouses will likely be on the cards.

After our unforgettable stay in Karijini National Park, we headed south and spent a night at Nanutarra Roadhouse. Convenient location with good meals, and the sites were fine but missing shade.

Where to stay: Nanutarra Roadhouse

Exmouth – 2 nights

We absolutely loved Exmouth and wish we had more time there. But, like so many places on the coast, a lot of accommodation was booked out, meaning we had to cut out plans short in a lot of places.

In Exmouth, there’s a lot to do: snorkelling, boat trips, and swimming with whale sharks or humpback whales depending on the season.

Cape Range National Park is a drive out of town, but it’s worth the drive. We stopped at various beaches along the coast and I couldn’t get over how clear and warm the waters were.

The breweries here are very popular (you’ll definitely spot people sporting Whalebone Brewing t-shirts on your half-lap road trip!). Whalebone Brewing is a great night out, with live music and delicious pizzas. Froth Brewery in town is also a good spot and I practically had to drag my husband away.

Next time we visit Exmouth, we will definitely come during whale shark season, which runs from March to July.

Where to stay: RAC Exmouth Cape Holiday Park

Wooramel Station – 2 nights

Station stays are becoming an important tourism attraction in WA and there are quite a few to choose from. We stayed at Wooramel River Retreat for a few nights and it was bliss. Days of chilling out, reading books and taking leisurely walks were just what we needed after a few months on the road.

One of the highlights here is relaxing in the artesian bore baths under the open sky – just don’t wear white as the iron in the water will stain your clothing red!

There are nightly meals and delicious scones during the day on the lush lawn.

Where to stay: Wooramel River Retreat

Denham – 3 nights

Denham was another town we loved (one of the many we started asking ourselves, “could we live here?”). The town is a great base for exploring the Shark Bay World Heritage area.

The main attraction here is of course, Monkey Mia where you can interact with the wild dolphins that come up to shore daily. Make sure to get there early as it gets busy quickly. We actually decided not to do this, as we’d heard that it’s no longer the great experience it once was.

Francois Peron National Park is where you’ll find those stunning WA landscapes where burnt orange cliffs meet white-sand beaches that drift into turquoise waters.

The road to the park is rough (4WD required) but very much worth the effort. There are a few different spots to stop at – I recommend Skipjack Point. From the lookouts here, we saw sharks, rays and plenty of fish.

Where to stay: Shark Bay Caravan Park

Kalbarri – 3 nights

From Denham, we headed further south to Kalbarri, known for the national park that sits right on the town’s doorstep.

Kalbarri National Park is actually made up of two different sections: the coastal section and the inland section. The coastal section is where you’ll find rock cliffs that plunge into the ocean, while the inland section offers gorges, rivers and waterfalls.

We spent a day in each. In the inland section, the Skywalk is incredible – if a little daunting being up so high! The Nature’s Window and Z Bend lookout were particular highlights.

At the coastal section, we did a variety of hikes and stopped at each of the lookouts. At one, we saw half a dozen whales frolicking offshore.

Where to stay: Tasman Parks Kalbarri (right opposite the pelican feeding point)

Cervantes – 3 nights

Cervantes is another charming town on the WA coast. It’s the gateway to the Pinnacles Desert, located in Nambung National Park. Walking amongst these ancient limestone pillars feels like stepping onto another planet.

Cervantes is famous for its seafood, and you have to stop at the Lobster Shack. While you’ll be dining with plenty of other tourists (busloads come here!) it’s still a great spot on the water with plenty of lobster dishes.

Take a short drive to nearby Jurien Bay, another lovely coastal town. There’s a great brewery there called Kakka Alley that makes delicious pizzas.

Where to stay: RAC Cervantes Holiday Park

Perth – 4 nights

Perth was our next base. Here, we caught up with friends, got haircuts, had a mani/pedi (me) and wandered the streets. It’d been years since we’d last been to Perth.

We actually didn’t do a whole lot of touristy things here – just ate out, enjoyed bars and hung out with friends.

Where to stay: Fremantle Village

Busselton – 6 nights

With family down this way, we planned a week in Busselton. This region is amazing – wineries and breweries, farms selling fresh products, fabulous scenery and coastal areas, we could easily have spent weeks here.

In Busselton itself, there are great breweries like Shelter Brewing, which is right near the famous Busselton Jetty, the longest wooden jetty in the southern hemisphere. We started most mornings with a walk along the beach.

Our days were filled with family visits or trips to wineries and breweries around the region, including of course the famous Margaret River region. Our car soon filled with several bottles of wine to take home!

Where to stay: Mandalay Holiday Resort and Tourist Park

Grass Patch Community Caravan Park – 1 night

After almost a week in southwest WA, we started our journey back to Victoria, with five days to travel 3,300 kilometres.

Yes – going this way meant we missed a huge swathe of the southwest, like Albany and Esperance. But the weather wasn’t looking great that way – so we are planning another trip back to this part of the world!

This was a huge day of driving. More than 9 hours on the rod and we weren’t even halfway across the state by the time we pulled into this lovely little community-run caravan park.

Where to stay: Grass Patch Community Caravan Park (in the tiny town of Grass Patch, south of Norseman which is where the Eyre Highway begins)

Nullarbor – 2 nights

The next morning it was just a little over an hour to Norseman, the official start (or end, depending which way you’re coming) of the Nullarbor.

The Nullarbor Plain is one of Australia’s epic drives, stretching 1,200 kilometres across a vast and seemingly endless landscape. Nullarbor means ‘no trees’ in Latin and it’s easy to see why – the landscape is dominated by flat, treeless plains with a few rocky outcrops scattered throughout.

We could have done this drive in a huge, mind-numbing 12.5-hour drive, but we decided to break it up over two days. This also meant we had time to pull off the highway to some of the viewing points to see the incredible Great Australian Bight, where the rugged coastline meets the vast expanse of the Southern Ocean.

We also stopped in at the Head of Bight Visitor Centre. The $36 entry fee for the two of us was steep – but so worth it. We spent an hour on the boardwalks watching whales and their calves play in the water. This area is a giant whale nursery during the winter months and we were lucky enough to see a few of these majestic creatures, as well as some playful seals.

Where to stay: Our first night was at the Eucla Motel, which has a large camping area – as well as a fuel station, restaurant and cafe. Our second night was at a community-run caravan park in Wirrulla in South Australia – technically not on the Nullarbor but just an hour along from Ceduna, which is the official end/start of the Nullarbor

Renmark – 1 night

Back on the road again for another huge day of driving. Nine hours of driving got us to Renmark on the border of South Australia and Victoria.

Our last night on the road, we opted not to set up our camper trailer and booked a motel for the night instead. That and a pub meal were the highlights of the long day!

Where to stay: Citrus Valley Motel

Echuca

We rolled in to Echuca in the early afternoon to the most beautiful sight: our dog, Diego. We had missed him so much during our time away.

After a few days in Echuca, we got back on the road for a much shorter trip home to Melbourne. Three hours on the road was a piece of cake compared to the long days of driving we’d been doing for the previous week.

And then, that was it! After 3.5 months travelling, more than 12,000 kilometres and far too many incredible experiences to count, our half-lap of Australia was done.

Now – time to plan a lap of the eastern half!

Are you planning a half lap of Australia? Are you going to take the west or east coast?

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Related posts

Before you go… you might like these other Australia travel guides:

• Epic Adelaide to Darwin Road Trip Itinerary: 15 Best Stops Along the Stuart Highway
• 35 Unmissable Things to Do in the Northern Territory
• Great Ocean Road Itinerary Ideas
• What to Pack for Uluru
• The Ultimate Road Trip Packing List

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