Looking for a Oaxaca itinerary that covers the best things to see, do and eat? Here’s how I recommend you spend a few days in this amazing city.
Oaxaca Mexico, a city that’s as rich in history as it is in flavour. If you’re plotting your journey to this incredible city, you’ve likely been entangled in the usual traveller’s conundrum: how many days in Oaxaca are enough to soak up everything the city has to offer, and what should you fill those days with?
Oaxaca is a destination that combines rich history, stunning architecture and some of the best food you’ll find in Mexico. As someone who has wandered through Oaxaca’s colourful streets more than once, I’ve gathered practical insights to help you craft the perfect itinerary for this remarkable city.
This guide aims to provide you with a straightforward, experienced-based approach to exploring Oaxaca. It’s focused on four days, but you can adapt this itinerary to suit the time you have available.
From navigating the bustling markets to finding the best spots for authentic Oaxacan cuisine, this guide highlights the best things to do in Oaxaca for travellers looking for a blend of culture, adventure and culinary delights.
This blog post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you book or buy something through one of these links, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you).
Oaxaca travel logistics
Before we jump into my 4-day Oaxaca trip itinerary, here are a few things you need to know before your trip to Oaxaca.
How many days do you need in Oaxaca?
In my opinion, 3 days in Oaxaca is the minimum amount of time you need to dedicate to this city that’s the ideal destination for culture and food junkies.
We had four days in Oaxaca, so that’s how I’ve written this itinerary – you can adapt it to the time you have. If you’ve got 5 days in Oaxaca, then slow down a few of the days and add another day trip. Two days in Oaxaca is possible but I honestly think that it’s just not enough time to get a feel for the city (let alone eat all the food!).
There are plenty of blog posts out there with a one week Oaxaca itinerary, but that only works if you have plenty of time up your sleeve. I’ve written this 4-day itinerary for those who have just enough time to get away for a long weekend. Either way, I guarantee you’ll be booking a return trip before your visit to Oaxaca is even over!
If you do have more time in Mexico, consider combining a Mexico City and Oaxaca itinerary. I have the perfect guide to 3 days in Mexico City that you can couple with this Oaxaca travel guide. It’s very easy to travel from Mexico City to Oaxaca (and vice versa).
Is Oaxaca safe?
I think so! I’ve travelled here both as a solo female and with my husband. I never had any issues at all when I’ve visited and always felt safe, even when we were out walking at night. There were lots of families travelling in Oaxaca, as well as solo females.
That being said, it always pays to be aware of your surroundings. Read my tips on the things you need to know before travelling to Oaxaca.
Regardless of the safety situation, I always buy travel insurance. Travel Insurance Master allows you to compare across multiple policy providers, while SafetyWing is great for long-term travellers and digital nomads.
How to get to Oaxaca
There’s an international airport in Oaxaca, Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX). Many international flights transit through Mexico City but some cities have direct flights here. Search for and compare flights to Oaxaca here.
From the airport, it’s about a 25-minute drive to downtown. You can hire a car, get a taxi or jump in the shared taxis, which cost around MN$390 per person (as of December 2023). You’ll see the shared taxi stand as you come out of customs. You’ll need to wait until the taxi fills up and as they drop people off to their different hotels, but it usually doesn’t take too long.
Alternatively, GuateGo offers private transfers direct to your hotel, which will save you a tonne of time.
If you’re already in Mexico, there are plenty of buses and domestic flights from Mexico City and other major cities to Oaxaca. Mexican buses are super comfortable, especially the long-distance buses.
Best time to visit Oaxaca
The best time to visit Oaxaca is October to February for mild weather. The hottest months are April and May, and you can expect a fair amount of rain between May and September.
My last visit to Oaxaca was in mid-January and the daytime temperatures were lovely – not hot but not cold, either. It got only a little chilly at night and we saw little rain.
Visitor numbers swell during major festivals and celebrations. This includes around Easter, the Guelaguetza festival, a traditional dance festival held in July, Día de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead festival which is becoming more popular with foreign tourists (late October/early November), and Noche de Rabanos, the “Night of the Radishes” (!!) in December.
If the crowds are huge, then is Oaxaca worth visiting during these festivals? I say yes! They are amazing cultural festivals that you won’t forget.
Where to stay in Oaxaca
Oaxaca tourism is rapidly increasing, so there are plenty of hostels and hotels in Oaxaca.
We stayed at Hotel Siglo XVII which was in the centre of the city and within walking distance of both the zocalo and the Templo de Santo Domingo. Rooms are built around a lovely courtyard and the staff are very friendly. While we went out for breakfast most days (to try to eat at as many different places as possible!) a breakfast of fruit and eggs cooked to order is included. Check the latest rates and book your stay with Booking.com or Expedia
Other recommended hotels in Oaxaca include:
- Flavia Hotel – luxury hotel with spa services and an infinity pool overlooking the city. Check rates and availability online with Expedia
- Casa Oaxaca – the hotel associated with a delicious restaurant I mention later on. It’s got an outdoor pool for the hot summer days and is in a great location. Book well in advance as rooms fill up quickly. Find a room online.
- Casa de las Bugambilias – this family-run B&B is popular with visitors. Each room features the works of local artists. See if there’s a room available on Booking.com | Read reviews on TripAdvisor
- Casa Antonieta – this boutique hotel has only six, minimalist-styled rooms. Each room has a small patio attached and there’s a coffee shop that adjoins the hotel so you can start your day with caffeine. Check the latest rates on Booking.com or Expedia
- Hotel Dainzu – a woman we met on our trip stayed at this delightful budget hotel and said it was one of the best places to stay in Oaxaca. It has a pretty courtyard and decent-sized rooms. It’s also in a great location in the centre of town. Check rates on Booking.com | Read reviews on TripAdvisor
What to pack
Pack good walking shoes to deal with the cobblestoned streets, a hat and sunscreen.
- Armstrong, Kate (Author)
- English (Publication Language)
- 672 Pages – 10/17/2023 (Publication Date) – Lonely Planet (Publisher)
Oaxaca itinerary
Now for the good stuff! Here’s how to spend 4 days in Oaxaca.
Map of what to do in Oaxaca
Everything I’ve recommended in this itinerary can be found on the map of Oaxaca below.
Day 1: Eat the best food in Oaxaca
One of the best reasons to visit Oaxaca is for the food, so start your trip off right by exploring the local markets. If you don’t know your memelitas from your mole, then the best way to discover Oaxaca’s food scene is with a tour with Omar of Oaxacking.
A native Oaxacan, Omar knows everything there is to know about Oaxacan food. He doesn’t take his guests to the touristy markets and restaurants. Instead, he hits the markets that Mexicans shop and eat at.
During our tour we didn’t see another tourist. We followed him as he weaved in and out of the stalls in the maze-like Mercado de Abastos, and ate more food in four hours than I usually do in a week.
We tried memelitas, fried quesadillas, atole, barbacoa, tlayudas, tostadas, pulque, mezcal, nieves and regional sweets. He shared with us the traditions behind local fruits and vegetables, and tips on how and when to eat particular foods.
It was a tour that we could never have done by ourselves. Even though we can speak Spanish, there was no way an outsider could navigate the intricacies of the market without local help and we wouldn’t have known where to begin with ordering.
He also knows all the great chefs in the city so he’s a resource for finding out about other hidden and not-so-hidden restaurants. He gave us so many suggestions – too many for us to have enough time to eat at! Omar is so well-known now he’s done work with Gordon Ramsay and recently appeared on Somebody Feed Phil.
Book your Oaxaca food tour with Omar through his website. He also does private and group trips to markets outside of Oaxaca City and can customise a tour to your needs.
Guided option: Omar’s food tour of Oaxaca is on the higher end (but totally worth it!), so this affordable option takes guests to other markets in Oaxaca. This tour focuses on Oaxaca’s famous corn and mole dishes.
After the food tour, you may need a siesta.
Once you’re ready to get going again, head over to the zócalo, the square that forms the hub of every Mexican town and city. This part of Oaxaca City is always bustling, full of people selling street food and balloons, families hanging out or school kids skipping class. It’s a fun place to visit – and you should come back here throughout your visit to Oaxaca, both during the day and at night to experience it.
Make your way up Calle Macedonia Alcalá, which becomes a pedestrian street for a few blocks close to the Templo de Santo Domingo. You’ll find vendors selling food and all manner of artisanal goods, from straw bags to cushion covers – pick up a few of the usually very well-priced goods.
Head into the Templo de Santo Domingo, a 16th-century Baroque church. Inside, it’s a golden wonderland. It’s open daily except during mass and there’s usually someone inside who can take you on a brief tour (for a fee) if you’re interested in learning more about the church. Whether you go inside or just stay outside, the temple is one of the essential things to see in Oaxaca City.
Next door is the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca (Oaxaca Culture Museum), housed in a former monastery. Make plans to spend a few hours here as there’s a lot to see, from temporary art exhibitions to the permanent exhibitions that follow the history of Oaxacan civilisation all the way to modern times.
Also close by is the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, the botanical gardens. One of the most beautiful Oaxaca attractions, you can only visit on a guided tour (to protect the plants). Two-hour tours are offered in English at 11am from Monday to Saturday for a small fee (MN$100). The gardens are beautiful and one of the best things to do in Oaxaca City.
Mexico may be known for tequila, but in Oaxaca you’ll be drinking mezcal, another liquor made from agave. It’s a surprisingly complex drink that’s smoky and strong. It’s difficult to know where to start, so make a reservation for a tasting at La Mezcaloteca and let the team guide you through a tasting.
They’ll customise a selection of mezcals based on flavours you like, and teach you how to enjoy this alcohol. Make sure to drink plenty of water between tastes – quality mezcals usually start at around 40 percent proof and make their way up to 80 proof! Reservations required.
Make (or stumble) your way to Criollo. You’ll need a taxi as it’s a fair walk from the city centre.
Here you’ll be delighted by the multi-course tasting menu that celebrates Oaxacan flavours. The kitchen is open so you can watch the staff preparing every course, including the women who knead, flatten and toast every single tortilla. Mexico’s most famous chef, Enrique Olvera (the man behind Pujol in Mexico City), is a partner in Criollo.
Day 2: Go on a mezcal tour in Oaxaca
If last night gave you a taste for mezcal, today you’re going to learn even more about the drink.
But first, breakfast. Head to PAN:AM for the delicious chilaquiles and fresh juices. Don’t forget to pick something out of the bread basket that comes around (a pain au chocolat, for instance). Everything is freshly made in-house.
There are plenty of mezcal tours around town (Omar from Oaxacking also leads tours to family-owned, small-batch producers) but we chose and recommend Las Bugambilias. I found them through the blog Brooklyn Tropicali, written by an expat living in Oaxaca, and loved that they take their guests to small, family-run palenques (artisanal distilleries).
The tour is an all-day affair, with stops at three different producers in Santiago de Matatlán (a region just outside of Oaxaca). Eighty-five percent of mezcal is produced in Oaxaca state, and most of that is made in Santiago de Matatlán.
You’ll learn in great detail about the process of making mezcal, and see where it all happens. Staff at each palenque leads the group through a tasting of their best mezcals and you can purchase bottles in each location. Lunch is at a family-owned restaurant.
Guided option: An alternative tour is this full-day tour which provides an in-depth look at mezcal production and education about this alcohol.
When you return to Oaxaca later in the day, have a rest before heading out for dinner at Cabuche. The enmoladas, tortillas rolled in a rich mole sauce, are a must, and the tostadas are all delicious (toppings change regularly). It’s a small, family-run restaurant. Service can be slow, but it’s made up for by the tasty, affordable food.
Head back to the zócalo, especially if it’s a Friday or Saturday night – you’ll find the area will be buzzing with families and groups of friends out enjoying the evening. Pick up a crispy, hand-rolled crepe from one of the street food vendors for dessert while you wander around.
If you’ve still got energy, try one of the mezcal cocktails at Sabina Sabe, a trendy bar on Calle 5 de Mayo, or grab a table at Txalaparta, a dark bar with a relaxed pub vibe.
Day 3: Take a day trip from Oaxaca
You can take plenty of day trips from Oaxaca (you could easily spend a week in Oaxaca) and one of the most popular and beautiful is to Hierve el Agua.
Hierve el Agua is a stunning natural wonder created by thousands of years of calcium-rich mineral spring water carving out incredible formations. Basically, it looks like a frozen waterfall. It’s about 1.5 hours outside of the city and there’s hiking and hot springs there.
There are plenty of tours that organise a day trip to the falls. Having done the mezcal tour with Las Bugambilias, I imagine they’d organise a great day trip to Hierve El Agua.
Both this tour and this tour include a visit to Hierve el Agua as well as other ruins including Mitla. GuateGo also has a tour that includes hotel pick-up and drop-off, mezcal tasting, a visit to see stunning weavings, and – of course! – the chance to wander the pools of Hierve el Agua.
If you want to visit Hierve El Agua alone, it’s possible. You’ll need to take the local bus or organise a driver.
For dinner that night, enjoy another world-class menu at an affordable price at Casa Oaxaca, a restaurant that focuses on Oaxacan ingredients.
End the evening at In Situ, one of Oaxaca’s best mezcal bars. They only have mezcal on the menu, though, so if you’ve had enough of this potent drink, this may not be the bar for you! The owner, Ulises Torrentera, is a fantastic guy (we met him in San Diego!) and is often at the bar so stop and say hello to him.
Day 4: Explore historic Monte Albán
Mexico is famous for corn and Itanoni is the place to go to imbibe this grain in many forms. Every dish on the menu of this gorgeous little restaurant is made from maíz, and it’s popular with tourists and locals alike. You must, must try the tascalate, a delicious corn and chocolate drink (get it con leche, with milk), and the tamales, tetelas and… ok, just get one of everything. It’s all SO. GOOD.
As soon as you’ve finished breakfast, head out to Monte Albán so you can be out there before the crowds descend and the sun rises too high. This pre-Columbian site will have you scratching your head in wonder as you ponder how it was built centuries ago when people didn’t have modern-day tools.
You can catch the local bus or jump on the tour bus from the zócalo (buy a ticket inside the store marked “Tours Lani”), which costs around MN$70 per person. GuateGo has a shuttle that departs regularly each day and can be booked online.
Bring plenty of water and a hat and sunscreen as there’s not a lot of shade.
Guided option: If you want to learn about the site, join a tour from Oaxaca City, as there are no guides for hire at the entrance to Monte Albán, as I had expected. This 3-hour tour comes recommended. You don’t need a tour guide, though, unless you’re very interested in the history of the site. I kind of wish we’d had someone to tell us more about what we were seeing.
When you return to Oaxaca City after exploring the historic site of Monte Albán, grab a table at Boulenc for lunch. They have delicious sandwiches on bread all baked in-house, and plenty of sweet treats at the bakery next door to finish up with. They also sell homemade honey, jams and pickled vegetables. It’s one of the best places to visit in Oaxaca for fresh, homemade food.
Hit up the markets in the afternoon for souvenirs. There are so many beautiful things to take home with you, from hand-stitched tunics, rugs, pottery and handbags. I’m not normally a shopper, but I just couldn’t say no to all the lovely things I saw.
Start in the two markets in the centre of town, Mercado 20 de Noviembre and Mercado Benito Juárez. These two markets are quite touristy but are interesting to wander through. The Mercado de Artesanías, Huizache and La Casa de las Artesanías each also have plenty of products to choose from.
End the day and your time in Oaxaca at El Destilado. This restaurant is owned by two American guys who fell in love with Oaxacan cuisine. There’s an a la carte menu or tasting menus to choose from. The venue is gorgeous with food to match.
More Oaxaca things to do
If you have more time for your Oaxaca city itinerary, here are a few more things to do:
- Take a cooking class. Highly recommended are the classes at El Sabor Zapoteco. A woman we met in Oaxaca absolutely loved the class she took at Cocina Prehispanica, held in a commune for young women from villages around Oaxaca that wanted to continue their education. This cooking class includes a visit to a market to collect your ingredients.
- Detox at a temazcal, a sweat lodge. You’ll clear out toxins as shamans slap you with bunches of basil. Ceviarem Temazcal is a popular option.
- Learn about textiles at the Museo Textil, housed in an old colonial mansion.
- Head out to see other ruins at Mitla and Yagul. These are just a couple of the many options for day trips from Oaxaca.
- Explore the local street art scene on a bike tour with Coyote Aventuras.
- If you’ve wandered through the markets in Oaxaca’s downtown, visit another local market outside of town. In nearby Tlacolula, vendors from different villages bring their goods to sell on Sundays. Omar from Oaxacking can arrange transport for this Oaxaca day trip and show you the best spots to eat.
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Has this Oaxaca itinerary inspired you to plan a trip? What are your favourite things to do in Oaxaca?
Related posts
Before you go… you might like these Mexico travel blogs:
- 19 Useful Things to Know Before Travelling to Oaxaca, Mexico
- 3 Days in Mexico City: 20 Things to See, Do and Eat
- The Best Things To Do in Cancun, Mexico: An Insider’s Guide
MEXICO TRIP ESSENTIALS
- Book flights to and around Mexico online with Skyscanner. I like this site because it shows me which dates are cheaper.
- Find great hotels across Mexico. Check prices on Booking.com and Expedia online.
- Check out the huge range of day tours throughout Mexico on GetYourGuide or Viator. There’s something for everyone.
- A copy of the Lonely Planet guide to Mexico will be handy, along with a Spanish language phrasebook.
- One thing I always purchase is travel insurance! Travel Insurance Master allows you to compare across multiple policy providers, while SafetyWing is great for long-term travellers and digital nomads.
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Can’t wait to celebrate my B-Day there! Thanks for the tips! You ae greatly appreciated!
Enjoy and happy birthday!
Thank you for the very useful information guys! I took notes! 🙂
Glad it is helpful!
Worthy of mention for those who are interested in is San Jose del Pacifico which is situated in the mountains and has an out-of-this-world sunset, they also have a strong culture of hallucinogenic mushrooms.
Hello Rebecca,
How long was the food tour with Oaxacking? And, was it all on foot and in the main part of the city?
Omar can customise it to whatever you need! We did a 4-hour tour (which I highly recommend so that you have the opportunity to try everything). Everything was on foot. If you do a mezcal tour with him, it’s by car. Let me know if you have any more questions!
I’ve never been to Oaxaca, but now I’m dying to go! The food in particular looks AMAZING.
-Claire
tallgirlbigworld.com
Oh my goodness, it’s worth going for the food alone!!